The New Ski System: More Realistic, More Challenging, Better

ℹ️This article is also available in german.

First of all, don’t worry — nothing has changed in terms of the controls and physics. Only many of the skis have been given new values, making them more suitable for use on different tracks. This revision was carried out in collaboration with our beta players, who tested our physics to their limits—just like real World Cup racers.

In previous versions, there were skis that worked well almost everywhere. That had two big downsides:

• There were a few skis that were clearly stronger than all others – no matter the track or snow conditions. Giant Slalom, Super-G and Downhill felt too similar.
• Some value combinations were outside physical reality (for example unrealistic combinations of speed and radius).

With the new version, this is over. Just like in real alpine ski racing, every discipline needs the right material.

Every ski is defined by four attributes. The exact values depend strongly on the Tier of your ski (T1–T5). A T1 ski has much lower values than a T5 ski – but the basic way the attributes work stays the same.

How fast your ski glides in a straight line. Based on the friction between ski base and snow.

Speed defines your maximum straight-line speed, NOT the discipline. The discipline is defined by the radius.

• Low Speed values (25–50): Slower glide, good for learning and fun skis
• Medium Speed values (50–80): Solid speed, enough for most tracks
• High Speed values (80–100): Very high speed, for experienced players and speed-focused tracks
• Maximum Speed (100–125): Maximum possible speed, only on top-tier Downhill skis are able to reach these limits. These high speeds can only be achieved with a high ski radius.

💡 You identify the discipline by the radius, not by Speed! Speed only says how fast the ski can be in theory.

💡 A difference of just 5 Speed points can mean several tenths of a second – no matter which Tier you are on!

How much speed you keep in the turns when you are skiing on the edges.

• Low values (20–40): Big speed loss in turns, a lot of braking needed
• Medium values (45–65): Balanced turn efficiency
• High values (70–90): Minimal speed loss, very smooth and flowing through the gates

💡 Carve is your “cornering speed”, while Speed is your “straight-line speed”. Together they define how fast you are overall.

How strongly your skis hold and stay on line when they are under high pressure.

When you turn, lateral forces (G-forces) appear. Grip defines how much of this your skis can handle before they start to slide sideways.

Maximum 100 = physical limit: holds up to 4G of lateral force perfectly (only reachable on top skis)

Above the capacity: you see snow particles flying away – your skis slide sideways instead of gripping

• Lower values (20–50): Earlier grip loss, more sliding in turns
• Medium values (50–75): Good hold for most situations
• High values (80–100): Maximum control, minimal sliding

The key value: how tight your ski naturally turns.

The exact radius ranges vary between Tiers. Rough discipline ranges:

• Below 45 m = Giant Slalom (GS) → tight, aggressive turns → easier to handle
• 45–60 m = Super-G (SG) → medium-wide, flowing turns
• Above 60 m = Downhill (DH) → wide, very fast turns → hard to handle

💡 Important: these areas overlap! A T1 DH ski (50–70 m) has a similar radius to a T5 SG ski (55–75 m). The difference is then in the Speed/Carve/Grip values.

💡 The radius is the primary way to identify the discipline. A T1 GS ski with radius 30 m behaves in turns similarly to a T5 GS ski with radius 50 m – just with lower Speed/Carve/Grip values. The relative agility stays characteristic for the discipline.

Think about cars: a small city car (small radius) is agile on tight streets. A big VAN (large radius) needs wider turns.

Depending on the rarity of your ski, you can fine-tune the radius:

• Common skis: 1 radius option (fixed)
• Rare skis: 2 radius options to choose from
• Legendary skis: 3 radius options to choose from

Example: Legendary DH ski

• Option 1: Radius 75 m → slightly more agile for mixed Downhills
• Option 2: Radius 80 m → balanced, standard setting
• Option 3: Radius 100 m → maximum stability at top speed

Example: Rare GS ski

• Option 1: Radius 25 m → tighter turns, more agility
• Option 2: Radius 30 m → standard, well balanced

Smaller radius (−5 m):
✅ Tighter turns possible
✅ Less braking needed in tight gate combinations
✅ Shorter line through tricky gate sets
⚠️ Can feel more nervous at very high speed

Bigger radius (+5 m):
✅ More stable at high speed
✅ Smoother handling on long straights
✅ Less sensitive to oversteering
⚠️ More braking needed in technical sections

💡 Pro tip: Legendary skis with 3 radius options give you maximum flexibility. You can tune the same ski for different track layouts and your personal preference.

In the Service Room before the race you can select the radius on Rare and Legendary skis. Try the different options – sometimes these 5 meters make the difference between a good run and a record run!

The bigger the radius, the more you have to use the brake button!

A downhill ski with a large radius (for example 100 m) naturally wants to draw wide arcs. On technical sections with tight gates, you have to use the brake on purpose – the ski simply doesn’t want to turn that tight.

• Giant Slalom (20–50 m): Rarely braking, a lot of steering and quick direction changes
• Super-G (50–70 m): Moderate braking before tight sections
• Downhill (above 70 m): Active braking before all technical sections is important!

The difference between T1 and T5:

• T1 skis: Basic attributes, beginner values
• T5 skis: Maximum attributes, pro-level performance

Discipline (radius) beats Tier when choosing skis for a track!

Examples:

A T3 GS ski (radius 50 m) is better on GS tracks than a T5 DH ski (radius 125 m). The DH ski might have higher Speed values, but the wrong radius makes it unusable there.

However: within the same discipline, a higher Tier is always better. A T5 GS ski is always stronger than a T2 GS ski on the same track.

Remember: first choose the right ski type, then take the highest Tier you have.

1️⃣ IDENTIFY THE DISCIPLINE (= choose the radius)

Look at the track:

• Lots of tight gates? → GS skis (radius under 60 m)
• Mixed sections? → SG skis (radius 60–90 m)
• Long, fast sections? → DH skis (radius above 90 m)

→ Filter your inventory by the right radius!

2️⃣ CHECK THE SNOW CONDITIONS

• Normal snow? → Use your normal skis
• Ice? → Use your ice skis (if available)

3️⃣ MAXIMIZE THE TIER

Within the correct discipline (radius) and condition (Normal/Ice):

Always pick the highest Tier you have!

T5 > T4 > T3 > T2 > T1

A T5 GS ski is always better than a T3 GS ski on a GS track.

4️⃣ CONSIDER YOUR DRIVING STYLE

If you have several skis to choose from (same discipline, same Tier):

• Aggressive style? → Higher Speed, a bit less Grip
• Defensive style? → Higher Grip, more controlled Carve
• Technically strong? → Experiment with radius options (Rare/Legendary)

“Why does my old ski feel different now?”

We adjusted the ski values based on last season’s data and a lot of player feedback. The new version brings everything to a more realistic level. The result: every ski feels unique – you immediately notice whether you are on GS or DH skis.

“Why do I need several skis?”

Because the radius defines the discipline, and you can’t race all disciplines with the same ski.

“Why do I slide more on ice?”

Because ice skis are modeled realistically: more Speed (less friction on ice), less Carve (edges bite less).

Even the best racers struggle on ice. Solution: use skis with high Grip values and ski more defensively. The reduced Carve value means: you have to brake earlier and more strongly.

“Which ski should I buy first?”

Beginner recommendation:

• GS Normal (highest Tier you can get): very versatile for Career mode and many technical tracks
• DH Normal (highest Tier you can get): for speed events and long Downhills
• Ice variants are for advanced players – first learn the Normal versions and how their radius behaves.

“How do Common, Rare and Legendary skis differ?”

The main difference is radius customization:

Common: 1 fixed radius option
Rare: 2 radius options to choose from
Legendary: 3 radius options to choose from

Advantage: Legendary skis can be tuned to different track layouts – more technical? Use the smallest radius. More speed-focused? Use the largest radius.

“What is more important: higher Tier or correct discipline?”

Always choose the correct discipline (radius) first!

Example: a T3 GS ski (radius 30 m) will beat any T5 DH ski (radius 100 m) on a technical track – even though the DH ski has higher values.

→ Remember: correct radius > high Tier > high attributes

This overhaul is based on:

• Hundreds of feedback rounds with beta testers
• Telemetry data from hundreds of thousands of races
• Input from real ski racers
• Physics consultations with our developers

We will continue to fine-tune during the season and watch how the new skis perform in real races.

Your feedback matters: share your experiences on Discord – which ski setup fits your style best?